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Concrete Mold Making | Page 2

concrete mold making 8

Figure 6


. Once the sealer dried, I then caulked the spaces all around the wood frame using silicone caulk and a caulking gun.

concrete mold making 9

Figure 7

  Wetting my fingers I smoothed out the caulk and removed the excess with a dry rag.
concrete mold making 10

Figure 8


The bricks are returned to the mold box making certain that they are no closer to the frame than the 1 1/2-inches I measured previously.

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Figure 9


Figure 9 is a close up emphasizing the 1 1/2-inch gap required between the mold box and the bricks.

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Figure 10


I begin coating the bricks with Kreemtex liquid latex mold rubber. I'm careful to make certain that the latex is worked between the spaces of the bricks. This is important so that a clean separation is achieved once we have cast in concrete.

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Figure 11


Not only are the bricks coated with latex, but the gap between the bricks and the frame as well as the side of the frame is also covered. This will result in a rubber flange once we finished our latex coatings. This coat of latex is the first of 14. Allowing about three hours for each coat to dry, building a latex mold will take a number of days. But it is worth it as latex is the best mold material to use when casting in concrete as it does not wear as rapidly as other mold materials do. I checked on the latex to see if it dried, but the damp, rainy weather has left it slow to cure. So that's all this Saturday evening. I'll see if I can get 3-4 more coats on Sunday.

concrete mold making 14

Figure 12


Overnight the first coat of latex rubber has dried. The bricks absorbed the moisture so it appears that there is no latex there. But on closer inspection there is a very thin coating. I added the second coat at 6:30 this morning - allowing three hours in between to dry I hope to apply on 4-5 more coats today. That's my plan -- we'll see if it works out as there is always some adventure that gets my attention and sends me astray of my goal.


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