Figure 64
The partially filled mold is held against a compressor which uses its vibration to help remove air bubbles. If you don’t have a compressor or vibrator you can rap on the side of the mold with your knuckle one minute or so as that will also help.
Figure 65
The mold is then completely filled with liquid latex and placed into a bucket to hold it upright.
Figure 66
Even though the mold is filled, in places the liquid has not reached the highest point. Therefore, the mold makers use a brush to pull up the latex to cover these areas. The mold will sit in the bucket for 45 to 60 minutes. During that time, about every 15-minutes or so, continue to coat the areas that were not covered by the latex pour.
Figure 67
After about an hour, it is time to return the excess latex to its original container. This latex is still good and can be used for many more mask making projects. Make certain you seal the container tightly though.
Figure 68
Once again the seams get extra treatment with a coating of latex as does the neck area where the liquid latex missed. After assuring a good latex coating coverage, the mold is return to its bucket where it is allowed to sit undisturbed overnight.
Figure 69
Upon return to the studio, the inside surface of the latex is carefully felt to determine that there are no wet spots. If so, a heat gun can be used to hasten the drying. If so, a fan blowing into the mold will speed the drying time.
Figure 70
Before de-molding, talc powder is liberally sprinkled into the latex mask as cured fresh latex tends to stick to itself and the talc prevents that.
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